Café Central is a great restaurant in Brejão for charcoal-grilled fish and octopus salad. Jagged black cliffs bookend this picture-perfect beach, named after 1940s rags-to-riches figure Amália Rodrigues, an orange-seller turned fado singer, who learned to swim here. A freshwater cascade tumbles on to the sandy cove, providing a natural shower. From the Herdade Amália guesthouse, near Azenha do Mar village, follow a path through thicket and down rough-hewn steps to Praia da Amália. The wild Costa Vicentina in the far south-west is an area of rocky promontories, monasteries, Moorish ruins and stunning quiet beaches. One-week packages from €180pp, shorter stays also available, ALENTEJO 5. Map reference Where to stay Salty Way House is just 3km from Adraga, between the beach and the mountains with rambling gardens and bonfire nights where guests can trade stories of their surfing or climbing experiences (the house is a centre for both activities). From here, there’s a walking trail along the cliffs for 5km south to Cabo da Roca, the westernmost tip of mainland Europe. Behind it, there’s a little restaurant with great seafood. Though popular with surfers (check out Adraga Surf Camp), the beach itself isn’t busy.

On hot summer days, the rocks provide welcome shade and there’s a small cave to explore at low tide. Shaped like an elephant’s trunk, it’s sandy, with rocks arching into the sea. The Sintra hills, half an hour or so north of Lisbon, hide ancient castles among forests before dropping down to dramatic cliffs with several coves, including Praia da Adraga.

Praia da Adraga, Sintra-Cascais natural park Doubles from €60 B&B, quintadojuncal.pt 4. A beach van makes trips to and from the house.

Alternatively the 19th-century retreat Quinta do Juncal, 10km inland, offers big comfy beds in antique-filled bedrooms with a pool and views out to sea. Where to stay For villas and apartments within walking distance of the beach see Baleal Surf Camp. There’s a jolly assortment of bars, cafes and restaurants selling fresh seafood all within meandering distance back towards Peniche. For more adventure head 2km north along the coast for limestone cliffs wrought with ravines and sea caverns. There’s good surfing, too, but with both north and south aspects swimmers can find calmer water. Sea-worn rocks provide seclusion and there are bathing lagoons at low tide and rockpools with plenty of glistening seaweed, tiny crabs and shells – perfect for mini explorers. Baleal beach is a magical spot an hour’s drive north of Lisbon, where a 4km sandy curve links the Peniche peninsula to the mainland.

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